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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee familiar award-winning venues. However, tucked near the top among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung part of north London.

A Unexpected Recognition

The compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. This recognition has left the family completely surprised.

“I’m totally shocked,” states a owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that led to their humble shop earning such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The little venue, which was a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its earlier feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all about the food, and this eatery certainly excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent texture.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at many times that price.

The Philosophy of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not train at fancy establishments. “I am truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo outside its own doors. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this culinary triumph.