Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and tourists equally swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a exclusive roster of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it joins a international community of over 400 urban centers across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "is a testament to its profound gastronomic legacy and dynamic gastronomic culture," as noted by a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this time-honored city is hardly a shock to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, lively, and vibrant city – the capital of India's biggest state – is now in the spotlight for what has consistently characterized its heart: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a constant discussion from morning until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and elevated to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, fusing Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases seasonal produce but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and kiosks – hidden delights that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a no-frills joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and involved. The cook beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will encourage more people worldwide to learn these tales and travel to the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.